Wires
Some experience with cold wire working is essential to make earrings, dangles and clasps for beaded jewellery. Cold wire work refers to any wire-working techniques that do not involve solder or heat; these include cutting, wrapping and hammering. Developing these techniques further allows a beader to complete intricate silver, brass, copper or gold pieces.
Wire gauge
A wire’s size is determined by its diameter. In North America, wire size is measured in gauge (AWG); the smaller the gauge number, the thicker the wire. In most European countries, wire size is measured in millimeters.
Shape
Wire is available in a variety of different cross sections, such as round, half-round, triangular and square.
Round is the most common and versatile and is recommended for the beginner. It can be used to create jump rings, clasps and earring hooks.
Half-round is used for rings where the shape of the wire fits more comfortably against the finger. Other shapes are worth experimenting with once you have gained confidence in the basic techniques.
Hardness
Wire is usually sold in four different levels of hardness: dead soft, soft, half-hard and full hard.
Dead soft wire is very soft and can be bent with your hands. It is often used for making wire-wrapped jewellery with thicker gauges.
Soft wire When dead soft is not available, soft wire makes a suitable substitute in most gauge sizes.
Half-hard wire is very versatile. It is soft enough to bend, yet strong enough to act as a functional component in jewellery. This wire is suitable for ear hooks, eyepins and closures.
Full-hard wire is obviously harder than half-hard, and therefore very strong and trickier to work with, it is suitable for functional components of jewellery and cold-worked chain techniques.
Types of wire
Sterling silver and fine silver wire
Sterling silver indicates that the wire is 92.5% pure silver. The rest is made up of metal alloys to provide strength. Sterling will tarnish (oxidize) in time, but can be polished to return it to its bright silver state. Fine silver is made up of 99.9% pure silver. It is softer than sterling, and because it has fewer alloys, it does not tarnish as quickly.
Galvanized wire is a dull silver color and is available in most hardware stores. It is suitable for practice but is much harder than silver wire, so choose thinner gauges.
Brass wire is a yellow-gold color and is available in a variety of gauges and levels of hardness.
Copper wire is good to use as a practice wire as it is inexpensive and easy to manipulate. It can be used to make finished jewellery as well, but be aware that it will darken and discolor with age (the resulting finish is called a patina). You can polish it if you prefer to keep it bright pink-gold color. It is available in a wide range of gauges.
Gold and gold-filled wire. Gold wire is available in various carats (from 10 to 24) and different colors, such as rose gold and white gold. It is very soft and easy to work with, although expensive. If you like the look of it but find it too expensive, try gold-filled wire, which is cheaper and long lasting.
Memory wire is a thin, tempered stainless steel wire. It is usually resistant to corrosion and tarnishing. Like a spring, memory wire is rigid and snaps back to its original form when expanded and released. The wire ‘remembers’ its shape and retains its coil form. It comes in circumferences suitable for necklaces, bracelets, rings and wine glass tags, and is available in gold and silver tones in a number of different diameters.
Colored wire has become very popular and is available in many colors and gauges. Keep in mind that the wire is only coated with color and it can mark easily if scratched with metal tools. Wrap pliers in masking tape to avoid scratches. It is suitable for making items where the wire is covered with beads, such as beaded flowers and other ornaments.
Niobium wire is a silver-colored metal which is anodized to create a thin colored film on the surface. It is available in pink, purple, dark blue, teal, green and gold. It is strong, corrosion resistant and totally hypoallergenic. The coating is resistant enough for niobium wire to be used in most types of jewellery, but it is not indestructible. Take care not to stretch the wire as the color will thin and become grayish. Also, wrap plier tips with in masking tape when working with niobium to prevent scratches and nicks. Niobium that is sold for jewellery making is processed to be half-hard. It can be used for cold-process chain making and, although more difficult than gold or silver, can also be used for jump rings and pins.
